Sewing and trimming machine.



J. P. WBIS. SEWING AND TRIMMING MACHINE.

APPLICATION mum APR. 2a, 1002.

1,081,797. K Patented Dec. 16, 1913.

5 BHEET8-SHEBT l.

24 Q 25 22 Q \Q l, /U L/ /5 6 l2 6 59 49 3 K 26 I. 7 J .34 27 4 Q 5 4 J/ f I INVENTOR.

WITNESSES": 28 29 M;-:n' A; J W 75 5 W MM W ATTORNEX J. P. WEIS. SEWING AND TRIMMING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED APR. 23, 190$ 1,081,797; Patented Dec. 16, 1913.

Q SHBETS-SHEET 2 8/ 2 O a I $5 75 7 J6 7 m, 4 7/, J" 5 a 7 7 J9 5 74 74 C 7f 5%; 5 J 77 WITNESSES: INVENTOR.

W 9. W Mk J. P. WBIS. SEWING AND TRIMMING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED APR.23, 1903v 1,081,797. l Patented Dec. 16, 1913.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 8.

' WI TNESSES: INVENTOH:

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A TTORNE Y J. P. WEIS. SEWING AND TRIMMING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED 11.23. 1003.

Patented Dec. 16, 1913.

5 SHEETB-BHEET 4.

J. P. WEIS. SEWING AND TRIMMING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED APR. 23, 1003.

LQLFQT Patent-ed Dec. 16, 1913.

5 BHEETSBHEIST 5v ran srai ns rarrnnr (JFFIOE- JOHN P. WEIS, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSIGNMENTS, 'IO ME'I'RDPOLITAN SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

SEWING AND 'IBIIVIMING HACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Dem-16,1913.

Application filed April 23, 19oz. Serial No. 153,908.

1 0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that 'I, J 01m P. Wins, a citizen of the United States, residing in Brooklyn, county of Kings, and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improveu-ent in Sew" and Trimming Machines, of which the following is a description.

This invention relates to machines for sewing and trimming fabrics, and particularly to a mechanism by which the sewing and trimming can be done simultaneously, and by which the trimming mechanism can: be thrown into and out of operation during the sewing without afiecting the stitching nini, of the machine.

operation and without affecting the An object of my invention is to provide, means whereby the work may be sewed and simultaneously.

Another object of my invention is to protrimmed and have a tape secured thereto.

side meanswherehy a tape may be secured to the work under tension, and the work fulled or puckered, or stretched on the tape to the extent desired.

And another object of my invention is to provide means where 1 part of the machine, may be thrown into by the trimmer, connected to some moving.

and out of action without affecting the'.

stitching or such moving part.

And still f another object is to provide means whereby F simultaneously with the adgustment of the,

feed for the. purpose of fulli-ng the Work,

tension may be applied tothe tape which;

is being secured thereto;

lVith the above objects in view, and others I which will be hereinafter noted, the invention consists in the mechanism, elements: features and combinations hereafter de scribed and claimed.

In the drawings: Figure l is a perspective view showing a portion of a sewing ma chine and particularly illustrating the feed mechanis and the, tension for the tape, together with the means whereby both the tension and the feed are operated from a bed-plate being shown in section Fig. A is .a vertical sectional view on the line 4 4 of Fig. 2; Fig. 5 is a front elevation of the mechanism shown in Fig. 2, showing the cloth-plate and bed-plate in section, and showin r the driving shaft broken away so as to ilustratethe bracket for supporting the trimming mcchanism;'Fig. 6 is a front elevation of so much of a sewing machine as is (lee .ed necessary to illustrate my invention in connection with a stitch-forming mechanism, includin a needle and looper; and Fig. 7 is a partial section and end ele vation of the parts shown in Fig. 6 and illustrating the manner in which the looper, needle, feed, trimmer and presser-foot are arranged and cooperate in accordance with my invention.

Primarily, it should behundeistood that this machine is constructed for the purpose of attaching a tape to certain portions of the .body of a coat or like garment; that is to say, mens coats are ordinarily provided with a stiffening in the breast portions thereof, and to prevent the coat from sagging or wrinkling, and to preserve the curvature thereof along the front edge, it is necessary to apply a tape of heavy woven material to the stiffening so as to support the weight of the coat. And, in order to properly -im part the requisite curvature and maintain the proper relation of the stiffening and com-material, it is necessary to attach the tape under tension, or to full or to stretch the material of the coat upon the tape and stiffening. Heretofore this 0 eration has been done entirely by hand an has provcn .a tedious, lengthy and laborious operation.

And certain portions of the garment, around its edges, have .to be trimmed while other portions do not have to be trim'ved; and,-

hcretofore, it has been necessary, in passing from the portion to be trimmed to the portion not to be trimmed, to stop the machine and throw the cutter out of operation. Obviously, this is a great waste of time and involves a great expense.

By the mechanism illustrated and now to be described the several desirable objects are fully secured and the operation and functions are accurately and perfectly performed.

1, is the bed-plate; 2, the cloth-plate; 3, the driving shaft, j'ournaled in the bed-plate and carrying at its forward end, as is-nsual. any suitable means for actuating the feed mechanism to impart its feeding movement,

through the medium of the connection 4, to the rocking frame Said shaft also carries the eccentric 6, I engaged by the bearings 14, to the rocking frame 5, which in turn is journaledto the bed-plate through the medium of a shaft 15, to which the frame 'is fixed by means of the screws 16. In rear of its journal the lever 11," is provided with the extension 17 through which freely extends a-screw 18, and which screw threads into an extension 19, at therear end of the feed-bar 8. This connection, between the rear ends of the lever and feed-bar, is

for, the purpose of adjusting the feed-bar thus regulating the bearing of theJfeed-dog upon the work that is to say, by depressing the rear end of the feed-bar the same'will be caused to pivot at 10 upon the lever 11, and throw the heel of the dog from'contact with the work and the toe of the dog into contact with the work, thus causing the feed to be in advance of the stitching position and the work to be fed up to the stitching position and fulled or slightly puckered, for a purpose hereinafter described. In order to properly brace-the parts and cause the lever 11, and feed bar 8, to maintain their relation laterally, a lug or lugs 20,

may be provided on the bar 8, to engage.

and guide the lever 11. A jam-nut 21, may be placed upon the screw 18, between the extensionsl'i, and 19 to maintain the desired adjustment, The presserfoot 22 is provided at its forward end with an enlarged portion at opposite sides, indicated by 23, in which is supported a spindle 24. A guide 25 is slidably supported on the spindle-and is held in adjusted position thereon by means of a screw 00. The guide, seeFigs. 1, 6 and 7, is in the form substantially of a bell-crank lever, the fulcrum of which, at the angle, is the spindle 24. The

screw it passes through the horizontal arm, which overhangs the presser-foot, and the vertical arm depends into engagement with the front part of the foot, Fig 6. Being screwthreaded into the said horraontal arm of the gage and impinging uppn the top surface of the 'presserf0ot, see :Jigs. 1 and 7, by turning the screw in one direction, the depending arm of the gage will bind tightly against the toe of the presser-foot and will thus be held in fixed positionj To adjust the gage, the screw is turned in the opposite direction, thereupon. releasing the gage from engagement with the foot and permitting said gage to be moved along the spindle This is a common construction and further details are consideredto be unnecessary.

Suitably held upon the shaft13, close beside the lever 11, is a cam-lever 26, the same having a depending cam portion 27, for engaging the feed-bar 8, whereby the same may be raised and lowered relatively to the lever 11,'by means of a chain 28, or other suitable means, connected to the rear end of said lever 26, operated in any suitable manner from below the bed-plate. A spring 29, surrounds the shaft 15, and has an end 30, extending vertically into contact with the cam end of the lever 26, so as to keep said end normally depressed and give the same a tendency to return to its normal position shown in Fig. 1. A collar 31, is fixed upon the shaft 15, by means of a screw 32,

and the spring 29, has one end connected to 'said'collar and through the medium of the latter tension of the same may be regulated 'by turnin'gv the collar upon the shaft by means of an instrument inserted in anaperture 33, one or more of which may be pro- .vided for the purpose in the collar.

Secured to the bed-plate by means of'the 'screw .34, is a bracket 35, to which is p'ivoted aile ver 36, by means of'thescrew 37, which lever, at oneend, is provided with a spring-extension 38, entering a slot' 39, in the rear end of the lever 26. The other end ofthe'lever 36, is extended to engage a cam 40, carried on the lower end of a lever 41,

pivoted at 42, to a vertical rod 43, suitably secured in thebed-plate as shown in Fig. 1. The upper end of the lever 41, is groovedor curved at 44, to conform to the circumference of the rod 43, and just below its upper end said lever is provided with a hub 45, into which is tappeda set-screw '46, for thepurpose of engaging t-he rod 43, and regulating the pressure of the lever 41,. upon-the tape which-passes between the same and the rod 43. Normally, the spring47, secured tothe rod-43, bymeans. of a screw 48, and bearing upon the lever 41, below its pivot 42, keeps the end 44, of said lever away from'the rod 43, thus allowing the tape to pass free of tension, A tape-guide 49, of any suit-able character is secured to the rod adjacent the upper end of the lever 41.

From the above description. it will be clear that the feed may be caused to bear upon the work either iri'front of or behind the stitching position,. and may also be caused to operate throughout its length upon feed the same up to said stitching position.

its operation.

When this functidn is accomplished the spring end of the lever 36, is likewise depressed, thus causing its other end to engage the cam 40, on the lever 41, which will cause the upper end 44,.ofsaid lever to move to- Ward the rodand apply tension to the tape. The object of this manipulation is to cause the tape to pass the stitching point under tension, and to cause the work, or body fabric, to-be fulledupon the tape as previously stated. By providing the spring end 38, on lever 36, great and extreme adjustments of the feed may be made without applying excessive tension-to the tape; and after the set-screw 46, has been set so as to regulate the tension on the tape, an extreme depres sion of the spring end 38, will not affect the said tension, and said end will readily yield to accommodate the depression of the lever 26. These are important functions in my machine.

In the claims I have referred to the regulationof the feed stroke of the feeding memher, to means for regulating the action of the feed, and means for adjusting the bearing of the feed device upon the work, and in 'various other Ways have endeavored to cover the several modes of operation of my feeding mechanism, in combination with the other features and elements of my machine; and in so doing, I desire it understood that I intend to cover, by the language employed, not only the idea of means of regulating the effective feedstroke of the feed member upon the work, but the effective feed movement of the feed member during The terms which I have employed to express my regulating and adjusting means-are intended to be generic with a view to avoiding restriction to such adjustments as are common and usual in sewing machines in connection with the feed mechanism thereof.

In operating upon the class ofgoods before mentioned it is desirable to trim at certain points and along certain lines and, at other times and in other places in the work, to throw the trimmer out-of operation; and this must be done, to secure good results and rapid operation of the machine, without stopping the latter, the stitching, or affecting the latter in any way. This is accomplished as follows: Secured to the bedplate 1, is an angular bracket 50, by means of a screw 51, the same affording a journal bearing for the shaft 52, which at its forward end has secured thereto an arm 53, having connected thereto a link 54, tbe upper end of which is connected to the rear end of a lever 55, carrying a pin fiti, journaled in a bearing 57, formed on or connected to an eccentric strap 58, surroundiugan eccentric 59, carried near the forward end of the shaft 3. The rear end of the eccentric strap 58, carries apin or bolt 60, swiveltion, or needle avoiding movement; and this looper mechanism constitutes the constantly moving part of the machine, when in operation, to which the trimmer has been connected for the purposes stated. The forward end of the eccentric strap is enlarged and provided with an angular socket 63, for the reception of a holder M, for the trimmerblade 65, the holder being made angular as shown in Fig. 5, and the vertical portion cc, being retained in the socket (53, by means of a clamping-screw (37, passing through the two parts of the forward end of the ec centric-strap which is provided with a saw-cut (38, for the purpose, this construction making a clamp for retaining the trimmer-holder from lateral movement, but permitting it to have vertical movements. The trimmerholdcr is also provided with a saw-cut (39, providing a clamp between the parts of which the blade 65, is held by means of a clamping screw 70, the socket of the clamp being dove-tailed and the blade being correspondingly formed. At one side the wall of the sockct (i3, is provided with an elonated slot 71, through which extends a screw 12, secured to the holder 64; and the forward end of the lever 55, is provided with an e1ongated slot 73, for engaging the screw 72. From this construction it will be seen that while the ecccntricstrap 58, is constantly operating or moving during the operation of the machine, thus imparting motion to the trimmer-lmlder and blade, still, by manipu latiug the lever 55. and depressing the for ward end thereof, the triumier-bladc may be depressed below the cloth-platc and out of operative position. The position of the lever 55, determining the position of the blade 65. To manipulate the lever 55, the shaft 52 is provided at its opposite end with a depending arm 74, to the lower end of which is connected the bar 7:"), providcd with the mziuipulating ring or handle 76; nd to hold the bar 75, in either of its extreme positions, '1'. 0., to hold the trimmenblade in action or out of action, the bcd-plate 1, is provided with a vertical post 77, which cooperates with the notches 78 and 79, in the bar 75. From this construction it will be seen that when the bar 75, is in its extreme forward position shown in Fig. 3, and the post 77, is seated in the notch 79, the trimmer blade is rigidly hold in operative position, andby the -will be caused to trim the ngn ticular of anv oil: the usual operating thereof.

The trinnner-blade is formed as its with the beveled portion t l-(hand 81, which guides the blade into pr operative and actuating relaion with a pention 82, of: the pressenfoot see Fig no, which foot is connected in any suitable manner to the pi'esse bar guided in the. head of the machine as usual.

In order to properly guide the the stitching point, guide 8d, a post 85, on the head of the lnacl'iine said guide having a loop 86., at each end for guid ing the tape to the stitchix point after pass ing fromthe guide pl 1e tape to be applied to the gamient, as herein described led from the reel or supply to the stitching position by being first passed through the guide 49 and then between the rod 4-3 and the upper end let off the tension lever; From thence the tape is passed through the loop 86.and then through the loop 86; between which points said tape is given a half turn, as clearly shown in F i g. '1, this being for the purpose of guiding the tape smoothly through the loop 86. From the latter loop the tape is led to and under the spindle 24c of the pressenfoot and between the adjacent guide and one side of said foot, the tape passing under the presser-foot as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 1. Thus, the tape is controlled and subjected to tension during its entire course of travel from its supporting reel to thepoint of application to the work.

From the above description detailed statement of the operation of the machine will not be necessary, it being obvious that if the trimming and sei'vingare to be begun simultaneously, the triinining mechanism will be thrown into the'position of Fig, 5); and that when the point in the worl; has been reached Where trimming; is no longer necessary, the bar Y5, will be lifted, quick thrown backwardly and then depres i s that the post will cooperate with the notch 78, and the trimmer will be insta thrown out of action Without interfering with the stitching operation. l urthcrnnne. it will be obvious that when the tape is being laid in under tension the teed will be inaiiiipnlated so that its action will be entirely in front of material of t upon the tape, uence stretched Furthermore,

ial.

to said n'iatei v tape has been laid to the desired extent may quickly grasped by the hand. 63? operator and, it the trnnming blade blade and cut oil" thus avoiding the necessity for the operator to pick up a pane of issors and cut the tape. @rd1nar1ly,'the

erial, the application of jcllllllg oil? the 1 {a the taae and the t 5 simultaneously; hence, when 1t 15 ed to cutthc tw ne the tirnniner is in ac- W be 11 'inued in action or in .ter may be thrown out oi ii at i n ti 1 u I claim and de' ent is:

i. in coinbinatioin stitchiorining niechae Il -Jill inclut -ng a loop-er and its actuating; mechanism; a trin'nner-bladcg a tril linerblade holder carried by a part of the looper- .n'acchanisni and freely movable thereto; and means for actuating described my invention what to secure by Letters Patactuatingg part for depriving said trimmerblade of its cutting function at will.

thereof; a trimmenblade; a holder for said tr iminer--blade mounted. below the cloth.- plate of the niac no on part of the stitch-- forming mechanism and freely movable relatively thereto; and means for actuating said holder relatively to said part wi'iereby the bliillll'ltlt"l)liltl0 may be deprived of'its cute ting function at will without aifli'ecting' the stitch-forming mechanism.

3. in combination; astitclr-lorniing mechanisin including a looper, a driving-shaft and means for actuating the looper; trimniing mechanism supported and actuated by the iooperactuating means; and means for depriving the trimming" inechanisin of its cutting function during the operation of the machine and without disturbing the action of the stitch-forming mechanism.

l. in combination, a drivingshaft; a stiteh-lorn'iing mechanism actuated. by said shaft and including a hioper-mechanism, the looper mechanism comprising a looper-actuating eccentric and strap; a trimming mechanism supported by the-strap; and means for throwing the trin'nning mechanism into and out of operation duringthe operation of the stitcmtorining mechanism.

in con'ibination, a d. l ing-shaft; stitch- :forming mechanism actuated by said shaft; a trimn'ling l'nechanisni supported andaCtuatcd b y portion of the stitch'forming' mechanism; and ineansi iw operating directly upon the trinnnni,

aiming of the imiterial le-holder relatively to said looper' mechanism, for

is in operation, may be turned across said a throwing it into and out of operation, .including a rock-shaft, and an actuating bar.

6. A sewing machine having in combina tion a stitch-forming mechanism including a driving eccentric and strap; a trimmerholder carried by the strap; a trimmenblade carried by the holder in position to operate through the cloth-plate of the machine; and

driving eccentric and strap; a trimmerholder carrying a trimmer-blade; means supporting the holder upon the strap; and means carried by the strap whereby the holder may be moved relatively thereto.

9. A sewing machine having in combination a stitch-forming mechanism including a driving eccentric and strap; a trimmerholder carrying a trimmer-blade, supported upon the strap; means for sliding the holder upon the strap; and means independent of the stitch-forming mechanism for actuating the means which slides the holder.

10. In a sewing machine, and in combination with a stitch-forming mechanism, a feeding mechanism having a tilting feedingdevice; a trimming mechanism; a tape-guiding mechanism; means for applying tension to the tape; and means for actuating the tilting feeding-device to cause the same to full the work.

11. In a sewing machine, and in combination with a stitch-forming mechanism, a

latin the feed stroke of the feed-member of the eeding mechanism; trimming mechanism; and tape-guiding mechanism; means whereby at will the extremes of movement of the feed-member of the feeding mechanism may be'obtained; :hid means whereby, in shifting from one extreme to the other of the movement of the feed-member, tension may besimultaneously applied to the tape.

13. .In combination, a feeding-device;-'-

mechanism; a feeding mechanism having a stitch-forming mechanism; trimming mechanism; and a tape-guiding mechanism; means for adjusting the .bearingof the feeddevice upon the work; and a device connectin the tape-guidin mechanism and the feed-a justing means w iereby when the latter is operated tension will 'be applied to the tape.

14. In combination, a stitch forming mechanism; a feecling=1neclianism; a trimming mechanism; a tape-guiding mechanism; means for applying a certain tension to the tape; means whereby the dog of the feeding mechanism may be caused to full the work to a predetermined degree; and means whereby such degree of feed may be varied without altering the degree of tension. 1

15. In combination, a stitch-forming mechanism; a feeding mechanism; a trimming mechanism; a tape-guiding mechanism; means for applying a, certain degree of tension to the tape and simultaneously therewith regulating the action of the feed to a predetermined extent; and means for changing the action of the feed without altering the degree of tension.

16. In combination, a stitch-forming mechanism; a feeding mechanism; a trimming mechanism; a tape-guiding mechanism; means for applying a certain degree of tension to the tape; means whereby the feed may be caused to full the work to a predetermined degree; and means whereby the tension may be varied without altering the action of the feed.

17. A sewing machine comprisin stitchforming mechanism; feeding mechanism; trimming mechanism; tapeuiding mechanism, including a tension-device: common means for regulating the action of the feed and for applying the tension to the tape; said means including adevice whereby, when the requisite degree of tension has been applied to the tape a further adjustment of the feed action will not affect said tension.

18. A sewing machine comprising stitchforming mechanism; feeding mechanism; trimming mechanism; and a tape-guiding mechanism; means connecting the feeding mechanism and tape-guiding mechanism whereby, when the action of the feed is altered, tension may be applied to the tape, said means including a yielding connection.

19. In combination, a stitch-forming mechanism; a feeding-mechanism; a trimming mechanism; means whereby the feeding mechanism may be caused to full and stretch the work at will; and means for throwing the trimming mechanism into and out of'operation during the operation of the feeding and stitch-forming mechanisms.

20. In combination, a stitch-forming tilting feeding-device; a trimming mechanism; a tapeguiding mechanism; means for applying tension to the tape; and means for actuating the tilting feeding-device to full the work 21. In combination, a stitchforming mechanism; a feeding mechanism; a trimming mechanism; a tape-guiding mechanism; means for applying tension to the tape; means for actuating the feed to full the Work and simultaneously, changing the tension of the tape; and means whereby the trimming mechanism may he thrown into and out of 0 oration durin the oaeration' 01"? the machine,

22. In combination, a stitch forming mechanism; feeding mechanism; trimming mechanism; a tape guiding mechanism; means whereby the feeding mechanism may oan-797 be caused to full the Work and simultaneously tension may be applied to the tape.

23. In combination, a stitch-forming mechanism; feeding mechanism; trimming mechanism; tape-guiding mechanism means whereby the feed may be caused toJ'ull the Work and simultaneously therewith tension may be applied to the tape; and means whereby the trimming mechanism may be thrown into and out of operation during the operation of the machine.

In testimony whereof I have hereuntosigned my name in the presence of two subscribing Witnesses.

M. B. HoABE. 

